Den otroligt härliga Charger 1970:an från förra veckan är nu helförsäkrad i Sverige och på väg mot vårt land.
Säljaren som ägt bilen sen Day 1 har gjort en beskrivning om hur man kör den och det är med glädje jag läser hans ord!!! En kopia av papperet ligger på instrumentbrädan
Men bilen säljs av en kille som älskar sin bil....
1970 DODGE CHARGER EXTRA INFORMATION
Questions? Call Jerry 111-222-7500 (USA)
Starting When Engine Cold:
Pump gas pedal once or twice
There is not an automatic carburetor choke system at present time ( a manual cable can be installed to move the choke butterfly). It is, therefore, suggested to warm the engine for at least 5 minutes to reduce engine stalling, before driving.
Starting When Engine Warm:
Hold gas pedal to floor and crank engine till it starts
IF Starter Occasionally Does Not Spin When Key Turned to “Start” Position:
Release key to “off”
Engage a gear and engage clutch
Rock car very slightly forward or backward to rotate engine very slightly.
This should better align the flywheel gear teeth with the starter teeth
Shift lever “out of gear” & turn key to “start” position
To Move Car:
Revving the Engine 2,000 R.P.M. while gradually engaging the clutch is necessary to prevent engine stalling of this big car (even when new)
Oil Dipstick Caution (assembly is bent slightly to avoid exhaust headers, causing increased friction):
1. To remove, hold tube with your left hand to insure stick does not pull tube out with it.
2. To reinsert, begin with open side of handle to rear of car, using left hand on stick (just above the tube it is entering) to guide blade of stick carefully into tube. This prevents stick from bending and possible damage.
Fuel Gage Interpretation:
Gage does not read correctly after new tank and sender float installed.
When gage indicates:
60% full --- fuel tank is full
One needle width above “E” --- 8 gallons in tank
Needle on “E” --- 6 gallons in tank
1970 DODGE CHARGER EXTRA INFORMATION
ORANGE Wire Connectors on the Engine Side of Firewall:
1. Two connect wires to the (security) “kill” switch located above right side of interior air conditioner assembly and behind instrument panel.
A. If switch to right: starter circuit can receive power from key ignition switch when selected
B. If switch to left: starter circuit is disabled to prevent starting
2. Other two connect wires to two white buttons on left side of instrument panel:
Holding top button & turning headlight switch “on” would open headlight doors when the motor previously worked ( these white interrupter switches were added because electric door motor would continue to run after it was a few years old even when doors had completely opened or closed). The bottom button would lower the doors if light switch is “off”. Electric motor is inoperative for other reasons now.
Scratch Removal: I do not recommend using polishing compound to fix scratches in the exterior paint because very much rubbing of this metallic paint will result in a different shade as paint is removed. I experienced this with the original factory paint.
Extra keys for wheel locks and gas cap: in trunk, hanging from trunk lid hinges.
Heater: hoses blocked from operation to prevent future leakage into interior of car. At present time, heater core does not leak, but it is 40 years old, and present day heater cores do not last but 10 years, sometimes.
Fan shroud does not fit existing radiator.
IMPORTANT: Left side wheel lug nuts- loosen clockwise rotation (opposite rotation as the Right side wheel lug nuts).
Air Shocks: recommend maximum 50 PSI air pressure; stem of filler is located on trunk floor next to fuel filler pipe.
Engine Oil: must have high zinc additive to prevent EXTREME engine cam shaft wear, in these classic cars not having “roller” type cam systems.
Engine Cooling System Thermostat: removed many years ago to keep engine temperature cooler, reducing chances of “pinging” (pre-ignition) which is caused by the lower octane fuel that is only available. This engine was designed for 100 octane fuel.